Monday, 28 April 2014

Women of Sapa

Vietnam was my second favourite destination after Japan. Straight after we got there I felt that nice connection with the country. I think we Polish people have lots of similarities with Vietnamese (I think similar history and political system made our personalities alike and we bond quite well). I loved the vibe of Saigon which was crazy chaotic but at the same time really pleasant. I warn everybody about all you can drink deals! Hangover lasts for days!
We stayed few days in Saigon and then went to explore the north- Hanoi. 36 hour journey on the train! The first thing I did in Hanoi was buying a jacket and gloves! The climate difference is horrendous! We were there in February and because of bad weather conditions we couldn't see haalong bay:( but instead we went to Sapa and for me that was the highlight. Sapa is a little town in the mountains which is a great gateway for trekking. While trekking I wanted to talk a lot to women from local tribes. They way they look and the way they live was so exotic to me.The clothes they make and jewellery they wear is incredible. And it's all hand made. I asked one girl how long dos it take to make one full outfit and she said it'd about two years. From the scrath- from spinning the yarn to ready product and the process includes busy family life and taking care of children and giving birth to new ones;) There is many tribes around Sapa but I only managed to talk to two Black Hmong and Tao.
Black Hmong Woman

Tao (read Zao) woman
Girls get married very early, around 15 years old, by the age of 20 they most of them has two kids, by the age of 25 four kids and when they are 50 they look and feel 70. Life in the rural areas is tough. They live in wooden or mud made houses and they build it themselves.

Most of people live there from agriculture and tourism. Many girls work as tourist guides (that started about 10 years ago and now the area became very touristy) and while they do it they carry their children on their backs.



Some of them walk bare foot and some just wearing flip flops (in February!).
The education in the Lao Cai area is very primitive. When I asked the girls about their education they were very emberassed to say that their didn't go to school because they had to help at home. In majority of the families even now only boys go to school. I think they did amazing! Their English was really good so I guess they had to make extra effort if they didn't learn it from school. They learn it from tourists.















Bali beliefs

I know it has been ages since we left Bali but I just have to write little bit about Balinese customs, traditions and religion because it's so rich and amusing! People in Bali always talk to us, as we passed by, they were asking where are you going but  they didn't really waited for the response. They ask the same question in Balinese 'mau kemana' and the answer to that is 'makan angin' which literally means 'eating the wind' just like we say 'getting some fresh air'.
Now getting more into family life I was surprised how little choice they have choosing their's children names. First names are attributed according to the rank of birth; there are four groups and most of them may be for either boy or girl. The first child may only be named Wayan or Patu or Gede if it's a boy. Second child made or Kadek, third Nyoman or Komang and the fourth one Ketut. This is all... And if families have more than four kids they the process starts all over again. We actually met many people named Wayan but I think modern families don't stick to that tradition a lot.
Bali is called the Island of Gods (who live on the top of volcano) and lent the earth to humans. Balinese religion is inspired by Hindu but also there is a lot of influence from worshipping the ancestors. For them the world is a huge ball resting on a turtle called Bedawang. Around its feet are two snakes called Naga. When Gods decide things are not going well on earth thy wake the turtle and his movement causes earthquakes. Then humans must make a lot of noise to wake the snakes who stop turtle moving. Although I don't think people actually believe it now I find this really fascinating.
Gods can be easily pleased by humans dancing, painting or doing any form of craft. They also accept offerings. That is quite similar in most religions for me more interesting is appeasing the demons. Everyday at every home and business people place the basket with offerings on the ground. The basket contains sweets, flowers, fruit, incense and sometimes cigarette. Baskets are not beautiful and sometimes contain rotten food because demons can't tell the difference.

Demons can move only straight, they can't turn. It is said that they often hang out at the cross roads and cause accidents (that made me laugh so much after I saw the way Balinese drive!) Yep blame it on the demons! Sometimes people put roosters in the basket on the road to entertain demons so they don't cause accidents.
At the entrance points to every city and village there is a strange gate to cross. It looks like a gate which was cut in half and each half as put on the one side of the road. It is called 'candi bentars'. When the demons tries to go through the gate would close squashing demon in between.

And the last thing I wanted to write about are Balinese trees! they are amazing and people worship them.